Basic HTML Version

|  | Table of Contents |  | View Full Version

Page 62 - Shawl Weaving Artisan - TP
P. 62

    Textile & Handloom                                                               Exercise 1.4.37
           Shawl Weaving Artisan - Defects and Yarn Quality

           Analyze yarn quality to produce fabric

           Objectives : At the end of this exercise you shall be able to
           •  calculate and relate reed count, number of ends per dent, cloth width, reed width, and Ends Per Inch (EPI)
            for weaving preparation
           •  make the loom fully operational
           •  produce a sample fabric.

             Requirements

             Tools/Equipment’s/Instruments                      Materials
              •  Handloom. (fly shuttle and                     •  Notebook                           - 1 No.
                throw shuttle)                    - 1 No.       •  Pen                                - 1 No.

           PROCEDURE

           TASK 1: Basic formula
           EPI (ends per inch) ≈ Reed Count × Ends per Dent.    4  Calculate total ends
           Reed  width  ≈  Total  Ends  ÷  (Reed  Count  ×  Ends  per   Total Ends = 80×40
           Dent)
                                                                          = 3200 ends
           Total Ends ≈ EPI × Reed Width                        5  Summary of calculations
           Cloth  width  ≈  Reed  Width  −  (Shrinkage  +  Take-up
           Allowance)                                                                Table 1
           Given Example Data                                    S.No.      Parameter         Calculated value
           •  Reed Count: 40s (Means 40 dents per inch)            1    Reed count                  40s
           •  Ends per Dent: 2                                     2    Ends per dent                2
           •  Planned Cloth Width: 36 inches
           •  Shrinkage and take-up: Approx. 10% (Assumed)         3    EPI                          80
           Calculation                                             4    Planned cloth width          36
           1  Calculate EPI (Ends per Inch)                        5    Reed width                   40
           EPI = Reed Count × Ends per Dent                        6    Total Ends                 3200
           EPI = 40 × 2 = 80 Ends per Inch.                     6  Analysis / Interpretation
           2  Calculate Total Ends Required                        •  Reed selection:
           Total Ends = EPI × Reed Width
           But  first,  let’s  calculate Reed Width allowing  for     Choose a 40s reed.
           shrinkage.                                              •  Denting plan
           3  Calculate required reed width                           2 ends per dent → In each dent of the reed, pass
           Given planned cloth width = 36 inches.                     2 warp ends.
           Assume 10% shrinkage and take-up:                       •  Width setting
                             Clothwidth                               Set reed width at 40 inches to achieve final 36
           Reedwidth
                      (1 - Shrinkage    Percentage  )                 inches after shrinkage.
                        36                                         •  Warp calculation
           Reedwidth
                        - 1  0.10                                     Prepare warp with total 3200 ends.
                       36                                       Practical Sheet for trainees

                      0.90                                      Do calculation as per the above formulas and write it on
                                                                the below mentioned  table 1.
                     = 40 inches

           50

| 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 |