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Page 99 - Shawl Weaving Artisan - TP
P. 99

    Textile & Handloom                                                                Exercise 1.6.60

                Shawl Weaving Artisan - Wet Processing

                Dyeing and fastness properties of natural dyes

                Objectives : At the end of this exercise you shall be able to
                •  develop natural dyeing recipes with good fastness properties.

                  Requirements

                   Materials
                   •  Dyeing container                  - 1 No.       •  Sharpener                           - 1 No.
                   •  Gas heater                        - 1 No.       •  Eraser                              - 1 No.
                   •  Thermometer                       - 1 No.       •  Notebook                            - 1 No.
                   •  Stirring rod                      - 1 No.       •  Different natural dye sources       - 1 No.
                   •  Pencil                            - 1 No.

                PROCEDURE

                TASK 1: Dyeing process
                1  Extract  the  dye:  Extract  the dye from  the natural   5  Wait  for  the  dyeing  process:  Allow  the dyeing
                   source using a solvent such as water.                 process to complete, which can take from 30 minutes
                2  Prepare the fabric: Wash and dry the fabric samples   to several hours.
                   to remove any finishes or impurities.              6  Rinse  and  dry: Rinse  the fabric gently with cold
                3  Mordant the fabric: Apply a mordant to the fabric to   water and dry it according to the fabric’s care
                   enhance colour fastness.                              instructions.
                4  Dye  the  fabric: Immerse the fabric in the dye
                   extract and  heat the mixture to the recommended
                   temperature.
                TASK 2: Fastness testing
                Light fastness test                                   5  Rate the color fastness based on the degree of color
                1  Cut a sample of the fabric to be tested, approximately   change, using a scale such as 1-5 (where 5 is the
                   10 cm x 10 cm (4” x 4”).                              highest rating).
                2  Then place the sample in a light fastness tester or a   Rubbing fastness test
                   natural sunlight for a specific period of time.    1  Cut a sample of the fabric to be tested, approximately
                3  Compare the color of the test specimen before and     10 cm x 10 cm (4” x 4”).
                   after light exposure using a visual assessment.    2  Rub the  sample with a  white  cotton  cloth using a
                5  Rate the color fastness based on the degree of color   hand.
                   change, using a scale such as 1-5 (where 5 is the   3  Evaluate the amount of color transferred to the white
                   highest rating).                                      cotton cloth using a visual assessment.
                Wash fastness test                                    4  Rate the rubbing fastness based on the degree of
                1  Cut a sample of the fabric to be tested, approximately   color transfer, using a scale such as 1-5 (where 5 is
                   10 cm x 10 cm (4” x 4”).                              the highest rating).
                2  Wash the sample  in a washing  machine  using  a   5  Evaluate  the results: Evaluate  the results of the
                   standardized detergent and water.                     fastness  tests  and assign a  rating based on the
                3  Rinse the sample thoroughly and dry it.               degree of color change or fading.
                4  Compare the color of the test specimen before and   Ask trainees write all the details you observe during the
                   after washing using a visual assessment.           process in the below mentioned table 1.
                                                                Table 1

                         Natural   Dyeing    Colour fastness   Colour fastness to   Colour fastness      Fastness
                  S.No.
                           dye     method        to light           washing           to rubbing     properties rating
                    1
                    2
                    3
                    4

                                                                                                                    87

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