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Page 47 - Shawl Weaving Artisan - TP
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    Textile & Handloom                                                                Exercise 1.3.28

                Shawl Weaving Artisan - Power Looms and Handlooms

                Hands on practice with jacquard loom and interpretation of its working

                Objectives : At the end of this exercise you shall be able to
                •  provide hands-on experience on Jacquard loom operation, understanding card punching, loom setting, and
                  interpretation of woven fabric based on design.

                  Requirements

                   Tools/Equipment’s/Instruments
                   •  A jacquard loom                  - 1 No.        •   Yarn (warp and weft)              - as reqd.
                   •   Design paper or graph paper     - as reqd.     •   Sample fabric for reference (optional)   - 1 No.
                   •   Jacquard cards (punched or ready)  - as reqd.  •   Notebook and pen for notes        - 1 No.

                PROCEDURE
                TASK 1: Practice on jacquard loom and interpretation of its working

                Step 1: Introduction to jacquard loom                 •  Optional:  If  punching machine is available, let
                •  Briefly explain to students what jacquard loom is.   trainees  practice punching a simple design (like a
                                                                        small motif or border).
                •  Discuss  types: Hand jacquard, mechanical
                   jacquard, electronic jacquard.                     Step 5: Mounting cards on jacquard loom
                •  Talk about its application  in textiles (shawls,   •  Show how to fix the punched cards on the Jacquard
                   brocades, upholstery, sarees, etc.).                 cylinder.

                Step 2: Identification of parts                       •  Demonstrate rotation of cards during weaving.
                Take students to the loom and physically  show the    Step 6: Operating the loom
                following parts and write its functions. (Table 1)    •  Demonstrate  running  the loom manually  (or

                                     Table 1                            mechanically).
                                                                      •  Show how the warp threads lift  according to  the
                           Part                  Function               design punched.
                 Harness cords                                        •  Trainees observe how picks are inserted and pattern
                 Needles                                                formation starts.
                 Hooks                                                Step 7: Observing fabric formation
                 Griffe (knife)
                 Jacquard cards                                       •  Let trainees check the woven output.
                 Cylinder                                             •  Ask them to compare with design draft.
                Step 3: Understanding design making                   •  Explain how changes in card punching change the
                                                                        pattern on fabric.
                •  Introduce the concept of weaving design for Jacquard
                                                                      Step 8: Interpretation and analysis
                   -  Motif creation
                                                                      Make students do the following:
                   -  Drafting the design on graph paper (use color
                      coding for clarity)                             1  Draw the lift plan of the design.
                •  Teach trainees how each square represents one end   2  Identify lifted and non-lifted warp threads row-wise.
                   (warp) and one pick (weft).                        3  Relate Jacquard card holes with design fabric output.
                Step 4: Punching of cards                             4  Calculate repeat size (number of ends × number of
                •  Explain card punching process                        picks).
                   -  Positive holes represent lifting of warp        5  Discuss defects (if any) due to wrong card punching
                                                                        or lifting errors.
                   -  Blank spaces mean no lift (down position)

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