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Page 84 - Shawl Weaving Artisan - TP
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    Textile & Handloom                                                               Exercise 1.6.49
           Shawl Weaving Artisan - Wet Processing

           Identification of textile fibers, yarns, and fabrics through visual, tactile, and
           simple physical tests

           Objectives : At the end of this exercise you shall be able to
           •  learn the basic techniques of identifying textile fibers, yarn types, and fabrics
           •  develop observation, comparison, and analytical skills in trainees
           •  familiarize trainees with common natural and synthetic fibers, types of yarn construction, and fabric
            structures.

             Requirements

              Tools/equipment’s/Instruments                        •  Water bowl                     - 1 No.
             •  Notebook                           - 1 No.         •  Tweezers                       - 1 No.
             •  Pencil                             - 1 No.      Materials
             •  Eraser                             - 1 No.
             •  Sharpener                          - 1 No.      •  Fibers:  cotton, wool, silk, polyester etc
             •  Magnifying glass Lighter           - 1 No.      •   Yarn: Single Yarn, Ply Yarn, Textured Yarn,
             •  Small scissors                     - 1 No.         Filament Yarn, Staple yarn.
             •  Identification charts              - 1 No.      •   Fabric: Plain Weave, Twill Weave,
                                                                   Satin Weave, Knitted Fabric, Non-Woven Fabric

           PROCEDURE

           A  Identification of Fibers                          Example
           For identification of fibers follow the Ex No 1.                          Table 1
           B  Identification of Yarns                                  Yarn Type            Number of Plies
           Step 1: Visual Inspection                                  Single Yarn                  1
           1  Place the yarn on a white background.                    2-Ply Yarn                  2

           2  Observe the following features with the naked eye        3-Ply Yarn                  3
              and magnifying glass:
                                                                Step 4: Fiber content test (with Teacher supervision)
              •  Thickness (Uniform or uneven)
                                                                1  If required, conduct a burn test on a small piece
              •  Smoothness or hairiness
                                                                Observe:
              •  Number of strands (Single strand or multiple
                twisted strands)                                •  Smell
              •  Twist direction (S-twist or Z-twist)           •  Burning behavior

              •  Luster (Shiny or dull)                         •  Type of ash/residue
           Step 2: Twist Direction Test                         This helps identify  if  the  yarn is cotton,  wool, silk,
                                                                polyester, nylon, etc.
           1  Hold the yarn vertically.
                                                                Step 5: Stretch and Feel Test
           2  Look at the angle of the twist:
                                                                1  Gently stretch the yarn.
              •  S-Twist: Slant goes like the middle of letter “S”
                (left to right upwards).                        2  Observe
              •  Z-Twist: Slant goes like the middle of letter “Z”   •  Elasticity
                (right to left upwards).                           •  Softness or coarseness
           Step 3: Ply Test (Count the strands)                    •  Smooth or rough feel
           1  Untwist a small length of yarn.                   Final identification table for trainees:
           2  Count how many smaller yarns or  plies make the
             main yarn.

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