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Page 78 - Shawl Weaving Artisan - TP
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    Textile & Handloom                                                               Exercise 1.5.44
           Shawl Weaving Artisan - Weaving and Designing

           Twill weave and its derivatives on loom

           Objectives : At the end of this exercise you shall be able to
           •  prepare different fabrics with twill and twill derivatives

             Requirements

             Tools/Equipment’s/Instruments
              •  4-shaft loom                      - 1 No.      •  Heddles                           - 1 No.
              •  Warp threads                      - 1 No.      •  Shuttle                           - 1 No.
             •  Weft thread                        - 1 No.      •  Graph paper                       - 1 No.
             •  Reed                               - 1 No.

           PROCEDURE

           1  Plain 2/2 twill weave on a 4-shaft loom                Pick(weft row)          Lift these shafts
              •  Take a graph with twill weave design and check             1                      1&2
                how many heald shafts are required as per the
                design.                                                     2                      2&3
                                                                            3                      3&4
              •  For.e.g. if the drafting order is in 4 then take 4
                heald shaft and place it in front of the warp beam.         4                      4&1
              •  According to the design, take a first  threads from   •  Then repeat the sequence.
                warp beam and insert it through the first heald   2  Pointed twill weave threading on loom
                eye of the first heald shaft with the help of heald
                hook.                                              •  Take a  graph  with pointed  twill weave design
                                                                      and Count the number  of shafts required  for
              •  Then take the second thread from the beam and        threading.
                draw  in through the first heald eye of  the second
                heald shaft.                                       •  Now start threading the warp on shaft 1.
              •  Then take the third warp thread and draw in       •  Continue threading in sequence up to shaft 4.
                through the first heald eye of the third heald shaft.  •  Reverse the threading pattern from 3-2-1.

              •  Then  take the fourth warp thread  and  draw  in   •  Repeat this pattern across the entire warp.
                through  the first heald  eye of the fourth heald
                shaft.                                             •  Now do the denting of the warp e.g.:  2, 2 threads
                                                                      in each dent.
              •  Likewise draw all the warp threads(e.g)
                                                                   •  Warp the loom and thread  the heddles in the
                 1 → 2 → 3 → 4 → 1 → 2 → 3 → 4                        pointed sequence (e.g., 1-2-3-4-3-2-1).
                 1 = First heddle on Shaft 1                       •  Sley the reed (typically in a straight order).

                   2 = First heddle on Shaft 2                     •  Tie up the treadles to match the desired twill
                   3 = First heddle on Shaft 3                        pattern.
                   4 = First heddle on Shaft 4                     •  Treadle in a way that either mirrors the threading
                                                                      or goes straight (1-2-3-4) depending on the visual
              •  Repeat across the width of the warp.                 effect you want.
              •  Now pass the warp into the reed  (e.g. 2 ends of   3  Diamond weave threading on loom
                warp in first dent and 3 ends of warp in second
                dent) order wise or as per required.               •  Warp the loom

           Treadling (Weft Order / Pedal Use)                         -  Measure and cut your warp threads to the
                                                                        desired length.
              •  To get the 2/2 twill, lift two adjacent shafts at a
                time, shifting by one with each pick like this:       -  Use a warping mill for even tension.
                                                                      -  Sley the reed (e.g., 1 or 2 threads per dent
                                                                        depending on width/density).

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